Paris Moda Haftası: Balenciaga İlkbahar/Yaz 2026

Paris Moda Haftası’nda Balenciaga dikkat çekici bir dönüşümün sinyalini verdi. Pierpaolo Piccioli’nin markadaki ilk koleksiyonu hem modaevinin kurucusu Cristóbal Balenciaga’ya saygı duruşu niteliğindeydi hem de günümüz modasına uyum sağlayan taze ve rafine bir yorum sundu. Son yıllarda markayla özdeşleşen sert ve teatral dilin ardından bu koleksiyon adeta bir soluklanma alanı yarattı.
Piccioli, Balenciaga’nın geçmişine özgü siluetleri yeniden gündeme taşıdı: 1950’lerin ikonik “sack” elbisesi, 1960’lardaki dramatik gelinlikten ilham alan ceketler, deri balon etekler ve tülip formlar… Fakat bu kez her şey daha sade, daha okunabilir ve daha giyilebilirdi. Aksesuarlar hâlâ markanın alışıldık marjinal enerjisini koruyordu ancak kıyafetlerin dili daha yumuşak, daha zamansızdı.
Defilenin merkezinde Piccioli’nin özünü oluşturan “temiz yapı” anlayışı vardı. Açılışta yer alan minimal ama hacimli formlar geçmişin izlerini taşırken günümüzün estetik beklentilerine de yanıt veriyordu. Beyaz gömlek, siyah ceket, keskin kalıplar, dikkatli seçilmiş kumaşlar… Lüks burada sadece malzemede değil formlarda da vardı.
Pierpaolo Piccioli önceki kreatif direktör Demna’nın sokak giyimi odaklı estetiğini tamamen reddetmek yerine, bazı fikirlerini incelikle dönüştürmeyi tercih etmiş. Geniş paçalı yırtık denim pantolonlar, düşük belli bermuda şortlar ve logolu aksesuarlar Piccioli’nin zarif dokunuşuyla yeni bir bağlama oturmuş. Aynı şekilde, Nicolas Ghesquière’in geçmiş koleksiyonlarına referans veren detaylar da koleksiyonun çok katmanlı yapısını güçlendirmişti.
Balenciaga’nın geçmişini ve bugünün ihtiyaçlarını aynı anda okuyabilen bu koleksiyon, modanın çok sesli doğasını güzel bir dengeyle yansıtıyor. Pierpaolo Piccioli’nin Balenciaga’daki bu ilk sezonu, bir devri kapatıp yenisini açmak gibi. Ne tamamen kopuk ne de taklit eden bir çizgide. Bu defileyle birlikte Balenciaga’da yeni bir dönem başlamış gibi görünüyor: daha sade, daha sofistike ama yine de oldukça etkileyici.
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